Gluten Free in Italy? Vegetarian? No problem

Hey folks, I have a lot of food allergies, they drive me insane, have left me in tears and leave me up at night with stomach aches...but in Italy I have had AMAZING luck. I don't joke, the land of meat, pasta, and dairy is one that also values fresh food, variety and vegetables. I live in Colorado, and in the land of beef and potatoes I have the HARDEST time finding Gluten-Free, Pescatarian, Dairy-Free, Soy-Free food. This is when you ask WHAT do you eat?

Lots of lovely things I say....especially in Europe.

Here are the tips of the trade for Italy.

DON'T PANIC- because you will find tons to eat, I promise.

BE PATIENT- look at a few places, cities like Florence are covered in restaurants, if one place doesn't have something, move on, there is hope. Also, read the menus, look for signs, a lot of places are proud to cater to celiacs.

ASK- Ask if they do SENZA GLUTINE, just say it, they'll tell you if they have special noodles, pizza, a whole menu or nothing. Also, I ask locals, or in my case my fashion teacher had a lot of suggestions and they often have a friend or sibling they eat out with and have to go to special places.

BE CREATIVE- Order side dishes if you have to, like potatoes, spinach, beans, or appetizers like caprese (if you can handle a little cheese).

TRIAL and ERROR- In the USA a plate of cheese or a gluten-free cheese pizza can leave me sick for two days, here the dairy has less of an effect on my system. I have had gelato almost every day for a week with no repercussions, seriously. Don't go crazy, try a little and see, or have it once or twice and stop. Cheese is a HUGE thing in Italy, so expect to see it in everything, and good luck refusing it all the time. Red sauce is safe, and make sure to ask for NO cheese, or NO LATTE.

CARRY A CARD- Make up a card with everything you are allergic to, written in ITALIAN (google translate if need be). Even if it is in really poor Italian it will give the server and staff an easier time to find you food.

GO TO THE MARKET- If you go to the central market in Florence you probably won't find Gluten-Free noodles or anything like that, but you WILL find some amazing fresh fruit, vegetables, wine, oils, and if you eat meat or fish the fresh of the fresh. Larger supermarkets will also carry Gluten-Free noodles, breads, cookies and crackers to aid in your plight.

GOOGLE- Google other tips, restaurants and anything you can think of, Google is basically my best friend.

Places I have tried in Florence...
Le Botteghe Di Leonardo- on Via Ge Ginori 21/r
GELATO: (cheating on the no-dairy thing, big time) This places does Gluten-Free cones, new flavors every week, and is the BEST gelato I have had anywhere.


(r means RED numbers on the wall, which are businesses. The BLUE numbers are residence. It's a florence thing)

Ciro and Sons- Via de Giglio 28/r
PASTA: I had an amazing pesto here, Gluten Free noodles and all, and it is in a BEAUTIFUL 18th century palace. They serve Gluten Free because one of the SONS married an American (a previous student of my fashion teacher) who had celiac disease.
PIZZA: you have to make a reservation for their Pizza at least 5 hours ahead, call or email.

The Clubhouse- Via de' Ginori, 6r
PIZZA: If you like buckwheat crusts then this place is great! They also have a wide selection of pizza types and many other things to try as well. Also, if you plan to come back with your hamburger loving partner or friend, this is a GREAT place to try!

In Rome:

Rinaldi al Quirinale- Via Parma, 11a-00184-Roma
I had the best dinner of my life (eating out) at this place in Rome. Off the beaten path of tourist traffic, crappy, expensive food, my study abroad program found this place and I LOVED it. I plan on returning when I make it back to Rome in what I hope to be the near future. I had GREAT food here, and wonderful service, very accomidating, telling me when I said I was Gluten-Free they would make me ANYTHING on the menu, I kid you not! They even baked me my own bread and brought it to me FRESH from the oven.

Anyone for a Joust?

Italy, come to find out, is full of surprises.

On Saturday my friend Mary and I met up for some museum seeing, meaning I got to see the Uffizi and David once more. I also got personal with Venus and realized she has GOLD hair, which is pretty awesome...Botticelli you genius you.

After all of that we made our way to a joust! Which was put together by a medieval reenactment group! they decided on a need to compete with one another in jousting and fencing so they had a big event, and had the money for tickets go to charity and it was wonderfully fun! It was great to see that it was not staged (okay they were really competing, but yes the costumes, parade and dancing were all a little "staged") because the horses were visibly antsy, they would pull little stunts and other little problems, stamping their feet, nipping at the other horses. They were beautiful beasts, all at about 18 hands I would say, and the owners, for being Italians were pretty tall too. They all wore their uniforms, and had names, which probably identified them to some part of their family and historical past. I spent two and a half hours there, and didn't even notice it as I snapped photos. A wonderful treat, which left me in a happy mood walking home and into bed.

The next morning, bright and early Mary and I went to Lucca, and rented bikes for €3/hour to bike around the city walls for a few hours, through the little town, and had lunch. Lucca, which I also visited the Sunday before really grew on me this time. I loved biking through the town, and see the city in a new way. The weather was also not so hot, so it was more comfortable for me. Mary loved the quiet, still and peaceful neighborhoods and people. I find it a refuge from the chaos that is Florence and swarms of tourists, Lucca was so green, and welcoming, a real Tuscan treat and the medieval walls added a lot of charm to its facade.

After lunch we took the train to Viareggio, where I got a different beach experience. Unlike Marina di Pisa it was VERY beachy, covered in tourists from Italy and beyond, but it also had glorious waves I could swim and jump through and get to feel like I have FULLY had a beach trip. At 22, I feel part of the club now. The surprise there was the mountains in the back drop! BEAUTIFUL steep cliffs rising from the hills, snow covered and dominating the landscape. That was very cool, and helped with me missing REAL mountains.

I was also the WHITEST person at the beach, no one starred too much at my glowing translucent skin.

By 7 we were on a train home, and 9 at our apartments ready for bed.

Today is more Medieval fun with the celebration of St. John the Baptist, with a gory, crazy and violent "football" match where the men basically beat each other too a pulp. My history teacher participated one year and came out with broken wrist, ankle, collar bone, and a black eye, and claims he was in better shape than some. I won't really get to see the game, I didn't get tickets, not knowing I NEEDED to, but I should get to see the parade, and the fireworks tonight.

CIAO!

Time Doesn't Stop

Well duh, anyone knows this that has passed the first grade.

But at home it can feel like time drags, when say I want the semester to be over so I can have a summer in Europe.

Of course, then summer gets here and it flying by. Then I remember this is like the first REAL summer I think I have had in about six years. Where I am not working a job and/or taking a really heavy class load, that left me with no time to have much summer fun. So this year is different, and I feel so relaxed, like I have never felt before. Except for missing Ryan this summer is going pretty well, it feels like summer, not a hot stop-gap between semesters in the stressful 4.5 years that will be my university experience.

However, time speeds by, what feels like last night I was dancing to The Beatles....but that was Tuesday, and today is Saturday. And I am having a hard time remembering the space in between.

I know on Monday and Tuesday I went to the Bargello Museum, which used to be a prison, but is now home to a lot of spiffy medieval art and Donatello's Davids and the like. They also have a cool room of Arabic artifacts probably collected in the crusades. There are also about 101 pieces of brilliantly carved ivory, poor elephant and/or walrus, but the art is stunning.

Wednesday I spent time on homework and out of the heat. Which was good but it was a day wasted and of not seeing things.

Thursday was filled with events, such as a really neat Men's Fashion expo, unlike anything I have ever been to where the men were dressed to the nines (we don't see that in the states) and I got about six different free magazines discussing next year's hits. It was beautiful to see the way it was laid out, artists selling art, selling lifestyles. I may disagree with the morals of some of this capitalism stuff, but there were highlights. Like the booth that sell women's jewelry, little fine metal hearts, and all the profit goes to help domestic violence victims. Or the fact that this event was only open to buyers and students of fashion. I felt like I was actually part of the cool cats, especially when a Japanese photographer took our photo, who knows maybe I'll be in a Japanese magazine?

I also ate two Gluten free pizzas on Thursday...one for lunch, one for dinner, and I didn't feel bad! They were really yummy, and the first I have had since arriving in Italy.

Then I finished the night at a pub quiz, winning second place with Richard my program director, I got a bottle of Rose' a bottle opener, and CD and Richard won me a shirt from the pub which makes a really cool pajama shirt!

Friday was kind of lazy, I got up and went to this old monastery to look at more Jesus paintings, which to me honest I am getting a little tired of, sorry there were just so many Jesus paintings one can look at in a few weeks time and not go a bit mad.

Then I walked around a bit, found out there is going to be a Medieval Joust today (Saturday) so I have made plans to attend that.

Then I finally went into the Duomo, because the line was not horrendous. BUT the church did not have the beauty and impact of the one in Siena, (they have moved most of the art elsewhere) and I got annoyed at people not following the dress code and then wondering why they were in trouble over it and then arguing about leaving the church. I feel that it is a respect thing, that the Catholic churches want modesty and that is their game, they keep the churches open so art and history geeks can come look and see (usually for free), they deal with thousands of people a day that come through the gates, so I think they can be a bit picky over it. I know it's not easy when it is summer and everyone is roasting, but it's just a thing, you have to respect it.

Then I went to the grocery store, got home, made lunch, talked to Ryan, my mom and sister Elizabeth, and my Aunt Carol. Then I went back out to the Museo di Palazzo Vecchio, which was another old Medici palace and at one point a parliament. Full of more beautiful frescoes and paintings it was fun to look at, fun to take in. There were great views of the city from the windows and the climb up the tower, which offered about the same view as I think the duomo does, for a little cheaper. It was also not very crowded and I could go at the end of the day so like 6pm-8pm and they're open until midnight. Then I did some photography, walked home, ate some dinner, and crawled into bed after a chat with my Aunt Jayne.

Today is up in the air, I may go back to Lucca with a friend, and I really want to go to that Jousting competition, so we will wait and see.

CIAO!

Why I LOVE Tuesdays

Well they're not Monday for starters, and they mark the progression of the week.

In Florence they have a lot of other perks.

Such as the Cascine Market in the Cascine park that occurs form 7am until 1pm roughly. Previously mentioned you can buy fabric, a pet turtle, and new dish towels all in one location. Or like I did yesterday, buy three pairs of pants without trying them on for €1 each...and find they are all mislabeled and do not fit. (Hey friends/little sister, want some cute pants that my hips can't fit into?) Regardless I had fun exploring and I did take home two cute new shirts, and a pair of leggings all for about €6.

And then I bought a bunch of scarves for friends back home... EVERYONE is getting
scarves! Hooray!

Avoid the heat by going early, and get better prices, as the surplus goes down the prices have a habit of shooting up as well.

I have classes Mon-Thursday so four hours of my day were spent inside learning about fashion and history, which was pretty okay considering my teachers are wonderful. Also, it has been extremely hot in Florence so being inside, in air conditioning, was very welcome.

Post classes some friends and I got dinner at a place that claims to have the "best pizza in florence", but I had a salad since they did not do Gluten-Free pizza or anything bread-like. I then ran home for a shower, changed into a clean outfit and went to join the gang for Tuesday night-Beatles night at a place called Be-Bop.

Which made for a perfect night.

It felt like I was in the Cavern Club in Liverpool in 1960 listening to the fab four strum out their tunes. And I swear I danced and screamed like a 16 year old fangirl too

So, we will be returning next week for €1 beers (well I won't be) delicious mojitos and brilliant musicians, who have had the Beatles stuck in my head the rest of the week!

CIAO!
~Rebecca

The Most Romantic

Florence is the most romantic city I have ever been to.

I'm serious.

Paris was great but something about Italy, Florence, the food, the buildings. It seeps with life, love, passion, and that key word, ROMANCE.

On Saturday I had some surreal occurrences happen in a strange sequence. I slept in, too tired from Pisa, and then met Richard with my roommates at 1:45 to go on a personal and free Uffizi gallery tour! Which was simply wonderful. Not only did Richard offer perspective as a tour guide, history geek, friend or local but also, since he in in fact a painter and artist himself, his own take, inspirations and adoration of centuries worth of fine art. Though he still loves modern art and its influence more directly on his life, he also really appreciated those that painted before. Botticelli, Da Vinci, Micheangelo to name a few of the more famous.

My main reason for going was to make sure I saw the Birth of Venus  and Spring by Botticelli but as we got into the thick of exploring paintings I realized how many others artists I loved were located in the galleries. Such as the first painting in existence that we know Da Vinci painted on. I also fell in love with Filippo Lippi's Madonna and Child which took my breath away at the beauty portrayed as Mary. We soon wound our way to many more beautiful paintings by dutch masters and French genius. I loved every inch, and would have stayed much longer had the closing time not ticked nearer and nearer.

At the end of the museum Helen and Charlotte went to do their own thing. I settled on wandering the city, where I found myself in two very different realms. The first meant going down a strange new street I had not before, and finding myself in a small but elegant cathedral which was having an organ recital. I love music, so I made sure to pop my head in and listen for a while, as the sound echoed and moved off the walls, it was lovely. The organ is such a unique sound and to be able to experience it live was an absolute treat.

After twenty minutes of resting my feet I left, deciding I needed food and other entertainments. Which is almost exactly what I found. I had decided in the morning that I would stay out of my top-floor, un-air-conditioned apartment until the evening, when things actually cool to a reasonable temperature again. So I meant to just find a cafe, take my journal and pen out about my day, my thoughts, I felt like writing, and photographing. The later failed when I forgot to put my SD card back into my camera, but I had my journal and was determined.

Then I heard drums. I knew that there had been events for this big 16th century style blood-bath of a football game they hold. I thought maybe it was a parade or something, so I followed the noise to find nothing 16th century but instead a celebration of Krishna.

I walked right into a Hindu festival, with a group of Italian versions of the Hare Krishna's in the states. Which was surreal considering this was all at the base of the Duomo, the massive catholic church of the city. There had to be at least 200 people dressed in Saris and traditional tunics and robes. It was strange but a happy crowd, they were welcoming giving me a flyer to join their sunday gatherings of vegetarian food. We have all of these preconceived notions of what a nation is, its people, its religion, ideas, philosophy, prejudices and everything in between. So, when it is challenged by a group that is not in our stereotype bubble our brain has to catch up. My mind eventually did, but I am still in awe of the spectacle of such a thing. It was as if I had gone from one country to another and it was a great feeling.

Only in Florence can one go from walking through Renaissance paintings to an organ recital in a Catholic Chapel and then to a Hindu festival all within an hour. 

PISA, more than a leaning tower.

Everyone wants to see the leaning white tower, and it is an icon of not only a city, province or nation but of architects, scientists and Olive Garden coloring pages. Yet, there is so much more to Pisa than jumping off the train or bus, seeing the tower and then running back to your transport. So much more.

I asked a friend from history class on Thursday if she would want to join me to go to the beach at Pisa, she said yes, asked one of her roommates not taking the Venice trip to join us. We met at 6:45 to catch a fast train...but due to unforseen and unexplained ticket circumstances we spent an hour trying to sort out Meghan and Mary's tickets. Here is what we all learned. a) You have to have a physical ticket for REGIONAL (in Tuscany) trains for the ticket checker person to stamp, sign, look at. BUT you don't need it for fast or longer-haul trains to Milan or Rome. Even though the website says you don't need a physical printed ticket...you do for regional. MY TIP: just buy it at the train station when you get there. b) you have to VALIDATE your ticket in a little green and white box, that sits innocently on the wall with no sign or explanation. This has to be done BEFORE you get on the train, by inserting your ticket to the far left of the large slot. It is so you get a time and place signature on the ticket, so they know you were not doing something with fake tickets or not jumping from station to station to get better ticket deals.

But FINALLY we got the tickets printed, got on the 8:05 train and an hour later we had arrived in Pisa. I was so happy it was a Friday, because that meant that there were tourists but not as bad as say Saturday or even Sunday. So getting off the train meant that to walk to the tower was easy, with little to no crowds and see the tower was also easy with crowds  but not swarms as we see in Florence by the Dumom or the Vatican in Rome. So we snapped some goofy photos. Walked to a small restaurant for lunch, I had a mushroom risotto, yum, a cup of coffee and some water. While Meghan and Mary chowed down on some pasta, and we all discussed our parent's, growing up, ethnic backgrounds and other little things. It was so nice to feel as if conversation was natural, comfortable, full of laughs and just three new friends getting to know one another without judgement or stiffness.

After lunch, which was a two hour occasion, we walked the riverside, took photographs and tracked down this AMAZING park in the city. Pisa, which many people don't expect or know, is a relatively small, walled city. So on the edge with the age and walls there are some beautiful features. For instance this park had the medieval walls, fragments of Roman walls, fountains, playground equipment and really friendly locals that used the green space for some peace. Though the city is not at all busy, chaotic, crowded, or heavy with traffic, it is always nice to have trees, birds, and a river nearby to remind us of our natural world.

We cut our park visit short to meet a couple of other students from the Art School I am attending. Jacob and Chris. Chris is in my history course so I already knew him, and Jacob meant meeting someone new. Which is one of my favorite things about travel. Once we got the guys we made our way to the beach...

The Beach? you ask! In Pisa?

Well sort of.

You have to go to the Marina Di Pisa, but this is a pretty easy task. Step 1 you locate the bus station that is pretty much right next to the train station. Step 2 find the Tabacchi next to the bus station and buy a €2 ticket to Marina Di Pisa. Step 3 find where the bus will pull up, there should be a sign and time schedule listed as well. Step 4, get on bus when it arrives. Step 5 validate your ticket in another little box ON the bus. Step 6 try to sit or stand as your bus driver drives like a mad man for fifteen minutes until you reach your destination. Step 7 try and decide which stop to get off at...you will have no idea. Then you will decide on one, that you can see the beach and ocean from this will work. BUT it is better to wait for a few more stops and get off by the sand at the Marina, rocks are not the most comfortable to hang out on. Step 8, if you get off far from the sand, walk and you will reach it, and it will be wonderful, except for having to go rock climbing to get to it. Just be careful, they're building a ramp for the next time you visit. Step 9, stake out your plot with towels and bags. Then you an hit the water, which is really calm because they built a rock barricade to help with not having such severe waves. You will be amazed at how clear the water is! You will be in up to your waste and be able to see your feet, minnows and if you climb on the rock barricade to the other side you might catch some star fish and sea urchins! Step 10 ENJOY the hell out of your afternoon/day/morning on the beach. Enjoy it because you're one of the ONLY Americans there on a Friday, the rest are locals, you don't have to pay like a Viareggio, the water is clear and a rich blue...and ladies if you are single, enjoy the men in Speedos, single guys enjoy the topless women.

We spent from about 2-7 at the beach, and didn't even realize. I spent some time in the water, but mostly enjoyed laying in the sand under my umbrella taking photos and resting my tired eyes, from only 4 hours of sleep. About 6:30 we realized we should try and buy a ticket from a Tabacchi and make it back to Pisa, in case the buses should end. About 8 we made it back to Pisa, we made our way to the leaning tower so Jacob and Chris could get some photos and see the darn thing. Since it was sunset this meant that I also got some really cool photos and with less tourists milling about it felt really calm. We then found a little eatery on our walk, they had Senza Glutine Penne, or Gluten-Free Penne for yours truly, and we all split a liter of house wine, which was AMAZING. Then we wandered back the the train station, stopped for some water at a kebab bar, and then caught the very slow, second to last train to Firenze, about midnight. I passed out until 10:30 today, Saturday, and have yet to get out of bed. My roommates and I are doing a tour of the Uffizi today with our program director, so I better get moving at some point.

CIAO!

Pitti Palace, a must see

If you like art, culture, architecture, pretty gardens, shiny things, fancy dresses, and wonderful paintings. Go to the Pitti Palace. I mentioned in previously about their wax women, but I went there Thursday afternoon with my Fashion Industry course and explored the hell out of it!

 Okay we more explored the hell out of the fashion/dress exhibition, which had outfits from the 1700s through to modern dresses. What made it more interesting was their pairing of older dresses and styles with modern pieces inspired by the originals. So, for instance an 18th century gown with large hips and skirts, paired with a modern dress with a large crinoline skirt.

Not only was it interesting to see the recycling of fashion throughout the exhibit halls, but he had a wonderful tour guide in our teacher Enrica. She talked to us about all the designers, why clothes changed, why it was the way it was. I knew a lot already, but learned much more as well. She was fantastic in her plethora of knowledge, and shared every little detail she could. So I was ecstatic, she also ran us through the jewelry exhibit, full of the most extreme pieces of metal, stone and  cherry-pit (not a joke) finery.

For a class assignment we have to choose a favorite clothing piece, a dress, in the exhibit and then find something modern inspired by it...you know my obsession, 18th century. So the hunt begins!

Also when you're at the Pitti Palace, make sure to see some of the gardens, because they're BEAUTIFUL and they provide a fantastic view of the city, a lovely green space, and wonderful statues, fountains and outlying structures. I didn't see it all, because I was hot and hungry and needed a break before my next class, but what I saw was stunning. It was not Versailles, but the view was to die for.

I ate a thing of Gelato, bought some nuts at a local grocery store and then had class. Then I waited for the email that would take me on a wonderful adventure the next day.

Humbled by David

I feel more like a local the last week, little things help me feel more at home. Like being asked for directions, recognized by the staff at school, having little chats with my professors and going to the local markets where people barely speak English.

 Monday was filled with a lot of sleeping and homework. Tuesday I actually did some things. I got up early and skyped Ryan, then hit the road to a Tuesday Market. It was full of clothing, food, linens, kitchen wares and gadgets. A great place to buy a dress, and take home a pet turtle or bird for instance.

But I didn't adopt a little critter. I only spent €20 and came home with a fair amount of things. Like a really comfy pair of linen pants, 5 scarves and a little jar of honey. Not to mention a great experience where the LOCALS shop!

Then it was time for class, where for fashion we went to a bookstore where they sell nothing but trend and art forecast books and magazines. Which was wonderful! I picked up a FREE Japanese Vogue, thanks to our teacher working out a deal with the lovely woman running the store.

I went home for some HW, then went to my history class for a whirl-wind lecture on the Italian unification.

Then grocery shopping, got asked for directions from some tourists, and home...where I ate PB and HONEY toast...and the rest of my jar of honey solo.

Wednesday I woke myself up at 5 to chat with Ryan, went back to bed until 9 then walked around the city center through the markets and into a fancy department store for class, got dirty looks, but ignored them. Decided I really like the summer collection from Au Jour Le Jour, but can't spend €600 on a jumpsuit, sadly.

Then I went market shopping...okay fruit and veg shopping, and looked at all the wacky meat for sale. Whole rabbits, chickens, cow tongue and heads. when I say WHOLE I mean WHOLE like heads and feet and eyes. But it was fun to learn what cow stomach looked like and that people really do buy such things to eat for dinner. Always better to use as much of the animal as possible in my opinion.

Everything is so fresh, I made a risotto with the zucchini I bought yesterday, never have I tasted such fresh zucchini, it was wonderful. Also, my fridge smells entirely like the basil I bought yesterday..I hope the roommates won't mind much, but they barely open the fridge soooo. I'm thinking I'll buy some mozzarella tonight and have some caprese. YUM (Totally ignoring my "don't eat dairy" part of my food allergies, so far I'm not suffering too much)

Wishing this was my photo...

Yesterday in between classes I also did a little of the tourist thing, with Charlotte, we went to see David. You know the DAVID! Our minds are saturated with images of the statue, saturated. I mean we know like every cm, but you still HAVE to go see DAVID in Florence. I'm serious. You have to! It doesn't matter if you see the replica elsewhere in the city, or see a million photos, you HAVE to see the real deal. It is amazing, beautiful, perfection, inspiring, moving, stunning, epic, intense, stoic and it will be nothing like you expected. It was entirely humbling to stand in front of an absolute masterpiece. Every inch is perfection and nothing less. Not only is it powerful to stand at the feet of a 9 foot tall man, but the fact that it is done with such skill, such timing, such perspective, craft, talent, detail. It is not only a beautiful piece of marble but what one man did with it. As arrogant as Michelangelo was, he could sculpt! I almost cried, and actually for a few tears in my eyes at the statue, especially when I had to leave to take care of hunger pains. However, I plan to go back, and sit for a while, and sketch the beautiful face, or abdomen, or even his toes, because every inch is a piece of nothing less than absolute beauty.

I did some more homework, went to class and came home. I called my Aunt Jayne, since she is like having a wise and loving girlfriend and it is always a treat to speak with her. Then woke up this morning to try and talk with people after hearing of pre-evacuation concerns where my parents live in Colorado, thank you fire season. But things have calmed down, still can't get in touch with my beloved, but I assume all is well, and that I can try again tomorrow.

CIAO!

Roma

I’m riding home on a TRENITALIA, my feet hurt, my mind is overwhelmed and I have a million new freckles that SPF 30 could not protect against. I’m somewhere on the outskirts of the eternal city thinking about everything that happened this weekend.

I am sitting next to an Italian man of about 40 and in front of a 20-something couple that can’t keep their hands off of one another. Helen, Charlotte, and Richard are scattered throughout the train, as most people, like us, are heading somewhere after a weekend away. Some for business, some for pleasure, maybe even some are headed for a week of work somewhere else in the country. We keep ending up in new seats as well, since we can’t seem to sort out where our seats are on the tickets, and some people are really worried about having THEIR assigned seat. I find it laughable, and as travelling goes, these little things are best dealt with when we can laugh.

I keep thinking how bad my feet hurt, and how annoying it is that not one of the three pairs of shoes I brought to Europe are keeping my feet from hurting, blistering and bleeding. Which has made long days on cobblestone a painful process. So, in Rome, I bought a pair of authentic leather boots, or “kicks” as some people call them. I figured if the lady working in the store, who is on her feet all day everyday was wearing them to work, then they may just be a nice and safe pair to wear while walking around for the rest of my trip. When I tried them on in the store my feet started feeling better instantly. So I trust it was a good purchase.

The last two days…

We got up at 5:30 in the morning on Saturday in order to make it to Rome at a reasonable time, to see as much of the city as possible in only two days. This put us in the city at 8:30 and at the hotel in only ten minutes via cab. There we were not allowed to go to our room and nap for a while, as we originally planned, but instead were left to get cleaned up in the bathroom and make the best of an early day.

We added a museum to our itinerary, seeing another part of one of the roman forums, and a modern photography exhibit. Our only schedule was to see the Vatican at 1:30, so we went to the Trevi fountain for photos, to throw the coin, and to see the city. Then we headed to the Vatican, I ate a bag of chips for lunch and everyone else had pizza. Then we waited and waited in line for the Vatican, even though we had reserved tickets, there was just so many people, also with reserved tickets. Then it was more waiting in line, standing among thousands of people, cameras, paintings, statues…we saw the Sistine Chapel. And due to pure exhaustion, too many people and too much heat that was it. I could not do any more. I tripped on some stairs, I wanted to cry, my feet hurt so bad. I honestly feel as if I got nothing from the chapel I had waited for so long to see. Not to mention we somehow missed the Last School of Venice due to poor line management and signs. I just didn’t even care at that point and there was no way in hell I wanted to go back through everything to see it.

So we left, didn’t even feel like seeing the Vatican cathedral, I just didn’t care, no one else really did either. Too many people, a line a mile long….it was too much. We planned to go back the next day, but I still didn’t care much. I will never visit the Vatican in the summer again, I realized that Italy, though warm and wonderful in the summer is overwhelmed with people. I think if I return it will be in the fall or winter, though chilly, I want a chance to see things without 7,000 people also breathing down my neck.

I think though, with some rest and time I will appreciate more of seeing what I did, I’m just now so very tired of crowds.

But, we found a respite last night. We went back to the hotel at 4:30, and even though there was some confusion on being able to find both room reservations we finally got into the room, and got to see the hotel’s interior which was absolutely stunning. Built in 1850 it used to be one of the most prestigious hotels for Rome’s wealthier travelers. It was known to hole politicians, aristocrats and other famous faces, and I can see why. It was gorgeous, marble floors, paintings, dressed up staff, crown molding. I loved it. The room was painted in a pale blue with wonderful 18^th century prints in simple frames adorning the walls. A large bathroom felt luxurious and even though I got the roll-away bed, it was lovely. I took a shower, got into some pajamas and went to bed for a couple of hours before dinner.

Richard called me at 7:20, and told me to meet him at 7:45 for dinner. Helen and Charlotte, exhausted, stayed in the hotel and rested, ordering room service for dinner.

Richard’s friend Tara met us for dinner, a very sweet graduate student from New York interning at one of the modern art museums. It was great to talk to her about museums, and studying, where she had been, what she loved. We all chatted about politics, and religion, and wacky things in our world. It was wonderful.

Oh and I haven’t even talked about the food yet.

We went to this place called Rinalde al Quirinale, which one on the Panrimo team had picked out for a dinner place, and thank the powers that be! This is the best meal I have ever eaten out, it is the place I will go next time I am in Rome, without question, and where before getting on a train I hoped to stop at and eat again as we walked by. Never have I felt so passionate about an eatery.

First things first, they greeted us so warmly when we walked up, letting us choose a seat wherever we wanted, we chose the terrace. Instantly we were brought menus, water, and server after server with friendly smiles and kind hearts. I asked about gluten free options and got the answer “anything you like, we’ll make” or something like that. There was NO question about making sure I had a good meal, and that I could eat whatever I wanted. NEVER have I had that. NEVER.

We ordered, no pressure placed on us to have more than one dish, we got an appetizer to start things. So simple. Caprese for the appetizer, so cheese and tomatoes, all were beautiful, fresh and so very tasty. Ricotta that melted, Mozzarella that made you smile.

                  

Then the food came, I got over my anti-fish and got a Risotto with itty bitty prawns. It was the best risotto I have had in Italy! Seriously. It had pumpkin and something else but god it was good. I almost wished I could have had three times the amount! But I was pretty full after the risotto. Another cool thing was what Richard and Tara ordered, they brought them separate cheeses for their meals just to make sure the flavor and taste was just right. WHO DOES THAT ANYMORE?

After finishing the main course they asked about desserts, we all went for it, and had some wonderful sweets. I got the in-house made Crème Brulee, which was just brilliant! They both got cakes, and said they were wonderful.

We finished with espressos, and I had my first shot of lemoncello. Oh ITALIA! I then crawled back to the hotel room, smiling at the amazing meal I had, and into bed dreaming sweetly of what a beautiful experience I had.

Sunday, we slept in some, I was up by 7, the other two slept until 8 or so. We all got dressed, enjoyed a large breakfast buffet, and then checked out and hit the road towards the coliseum. Which was my main reason for wanting to go to Rome, and it was worth it. We made sure to join a tour, which helped us skip the lines, but also gave us more of a story as to what we were actually looking at. Like the bottom part being where they caged animals, the wood platform was from 2000 and was meant to show where the real arena would be. Also, there was some marble seats still left for people to get an idea of what sitting at the coliseum would have been like.

It was really cool! I loved it, and made everyone spend about 4 hours dealing with the coliseum and the ancient city. But I felt it was very worth it. I loved the stories that I heard as we walked through the ancient city with our guide. I loved the view from the coliseum, I loved it all, and even though some of the death aspect was disturbing I found it all so fascinating. The ancient city brought so much to my attention, and made me really visualize the grandeur of where and how these people lived. It also made me cringe at the reality that so much was ripped apart. The Romans built things to last, they didn’t build them to fall apart and the reason they are all in such horrible shape is because of groups like the Christians recycling much of the marble and other features to build their churches in Rome. Meaning they would just take all the good bits and leave the crummy parts to rot, and eventually those all got covered with rubble and forgotten at different times. Until about 500 or 150 years ago when people started to try and preserve, find and love their ancient relics.

So my interest and question is what would all of this have looked like if people hadn’t gone about tearing everything down? They built things to last, I saw a pair of 1,800 year old doors today that the locks still work perfectly. What does that say?

On less serious notes, I had my picture taken with “Gladiators” really funny pictures, Richard got in some too. It was totally worth the 10. I will treasure these goofy photos for forever.

 

After the ancient city and coliseum we said goodbye and took a taxi to the Spanish steps, walked them, saw the cathedral. Walked down. Then we hit some stores and did some shopping. I upgraded to SPF 50, as per the comments and advice of the pharmacist, it was on sale for 50% off, so it was 13.50 instead of 26 or something. Helen bought a new outfit and then we found the shoe store. Helen and Charlotte both got gladiator sandals, and I myself bought my boots, since I have sandals that are kind or working here…kind of.

Then we walked to the hotel, picked up our luggage, walked to the train station, got a bite to eat at a cafeteria thing, and now we’re on the train. I saw Rome.

I think I am going to pass out in bed and mess with adult things in the morning, like dishes and laundry and showering.

CIAO!

Siena

Oh what can you say about Siena?

Have you been there? (If so comment below) Then you know it is much unlike Florence and as I saw this weekend, much unlike Rome.

You know that wacky Italian horse race you’ve heard about? Where people get trampled? And horses break their legs? I saw that racetrack; it is very small and steep, shaped like a seashell. Part of a beautiful Piazza, but the nutty bare-backed horse race that goes on since medieval times just looks insane!

Other than seeing the piazza of lethal horse races, I also got to see the beautiful Tuscan hill city of Siena.

We travelled with our school group for the summer of 160 people, which made getting place a bit insane. So, 160 people onto buses, pouring into an already busy tourist city. But for only an hour or so were we with a tour group then we got to go do our own thing. I stuck with the roommates for simplicity, we tried a restaurant Richard (program director) suggested. Which made their own pasta, was family owned and had a very authentic feel.

It was a nice experience, we got the whole three course meal thing…First course, pasta or rice. Second, meat. Third a side of potatoes. Of course I was really full from the pasta, but the old man, the owner insisted on a second course, “no carne” I announced, which means no meat. BUT they had fish, sole, which I had never tried. So I ordered it. Helen got the chicken and Charlotte got the prosciutto. We didn’t think it would be too horrible in price, we tried to enjoy the food. Turns out I really don’t like Sole. I also did not like part of the organs being served with it, even though it was deboned. Made my stomach churn to be honest…so I may be off of fish for a while.

Anyway, we then had them split the check in three ways and give us each our bill. Helen got the cheaper end, with one €20 for everything. Charlotte got socked with €26 for her prosciutto was way more than the chicken. Then I got the kicker at €30 for my lunch or $40 USD. Because the fish was €18. I about died, but paid the bill and  we got on with our lives. They were really sweet people, but I learned a hard lesson. It is okay to just do a single course, and okay to say no, and okay to ask for menu prices because you may save $20 in the process.

I also learned something in Rome, in a very different situation. We had dinner at a beautiful restaurant, family owned, professional, nice, calm, wonderful atmosphere. But we didn’t want a huge dinner, so we ordered one appetizer, one course and had dessert. It was much cheaper but then I realized how much fish cost there and the trouble I could have been in in Siena had I just ordered something on a whim. Their fish, very fine and expensive I mind you, was in the €40-120 range. I can’t imagine what I would have done if I ordered a €120 plate of fish in Siena. So, travelers, don’t be afraid to ask questions or refuse something, it will be better on your wallet, mind set, and not ruin a perfectly nice lunch when the bill comes.

Back on the streets of Siena we decided to go to the big Cathedral or Siena Duomo. Which with a €12 combined ticket was not bad for getting to see the cathedral, climb up a tower to see all of Tuscany, see their museum, baptistery and a few other things. The highlight was the tower mind you, or rather climbing to this part of the church that they started to build but stopped when the plague terrorized the area. As many know when the plague was done with the worst part the labor force was greatly diminished, and finances had been turned on their head in all of Europe. Leaving no money left for adding onto an already expensive church.

This view was breathtaking, not only did you get to see all of Siena, but a huge part of Tuscany, with vineyards, houses, and rolling green hills. It was an ideal spot for photography, wonderful for a romantic spot to sight see, and brought tears to my eyes thinking about Ryan and how badly I wanted him there, not only to sight see but to snuggle with in the piazza and eat gelato and just BE with.

We got booted from the tower, went to finish up the museum with all of the ORIGINAL marble saints from the cathedral who were moved in doors to preserve the medieval masterpieces. There was also a few saint’s bones and lovely paintings to look at and try to understand the symbolism.

The cathedral I must say was also a treat, a beautiful painted ceiling, blue with gold stars. Great marble work on the floors and walls, one part had some VERY famous fresco works I recognized from a book cover I have at home and will now have to sort out who painted them.

Then it was time to meet the group and get dinner, which even though there was 160 of us the restaurant was really good, great service, catered to my allergies. I was happy! I also met some photography students from Missouri and really connected with them. I had three glasses of Chianti while there, it was FANTASTIC! The first I have had since being here!

Then it was time for bed, and getting up at 5:30 the next morning for ROMA!

Wax Women

Thursday I let Florence envelope me, without a plan I just let the city come to me. Rather I let my feet take me where I felt I needed to go. I felt I needed to go to a small clothing market, and then I felt like going to the Pitti Palace (Free unlimited visits as a student!) where I walked some of the gardens, and paid extra to look at the macabre of the macabre.

The Pitti Palace is home to a small natural history museum, so if you REALLY like old taxidermy animals in the very institutional glass cases with beady eyes and sagging coats staring back at you, pay the €6 and go...

Okay I'm being unfair, this is one of the better collections of a large variety of animals, stuffed, throughout the last two centuries. Some of them are very well preserved, while others are laughable, like the droopy 300 year old Hippo (would not have loved carting that carcass all the way form Africa to stuff). If you want to see a lot of birds, and sea creatures this is a great collection.They lacked a "Great American North" section but overall it was a fantastic trip through the animal kingdom...

Then I found the semi-disturbing but really fantastic room of Human Anatomy. As you know, well maybe you don't unless you know me, I have a habit of finding and going to these sort of museums. There was the surgeon's museum in Edinburgh, the Operating Theater in London and now I can add: Museo di Storia Naturale Firenze, and their wax medical model exhibit. Almost all of the pieces were made in the late 18th century. There were dozens of  little pieces showing the bladder, intestines, heart, and everything else you can imagine and then it got a little creepy. Even for me. These skilled creators of wax statues and forms moved into not just making small models or pieces of the human body, which generally feel less human, more objectified, so these artists began creating full humans. 

Which sounds logical and fairly innocent, but no my friends this is ITALIA everything is passionate and artsy so instead of having a human form just laying on a board, stiff, pretty tame, all the figures were in the most dramatic poses. Women had long long braided hair that some were holding, as their back was arched and faced contorted into the most horrifying looks. Eyes fully open, and faces crying for help. It was like walking through a room of some sick torture and disembowelment. Every form looked as if they had been sliced open, living and breathing, and were slowly dying from the horrors inflicted upon them. 

Not to mention they were all propped up on silk pillows and white funeral shrouds. Pretty intense.

And the one that was male and all all nerves was the creepiest.

Okay but I am missing the point, which is that these were the most amazing human forms I have ever seen made out of wax. Madame Tussaud's eat your heart out. Screw seeing a wax Harry Potter come see this woman look like she is being ripped apart while still living!

The point is there is an immense amount of skill put into these things. Every detail needed to be designed and pieces together, painted, placed, and it took forever I am sure, like placing every strand of REAL human hair into the wax head of these things. I can't even imagine where to begin, how?? just how did they make such things? It is really remarkable.

However, if you are like Ryan, or many other people I know, this exhibit will leave your skin and stomach crawling. If you are weird like me, you'll love it.

It was then time to start heading back to school....

But I felt I needed to walk the Ponte Vecchio and drool over very expensive antique jewelry I REALLY wanted to take home with me, only €1200!

Then it was time for school, where we watched a very interesting documentary on a couple of fashion designers and the work put into developing and releasing a perfume.

Then I more or less ran down the street to a gluten-free place Ciro & Sons which I ordered an amazing gluten-free pesto! And got to eat it in an old 18^th century palace of one of the hoity toity of Florence.

Luckily, I also got to meet up with a high school friend and got to walk part of the city with her, Hailey and her mom. It was fun seeing a familiar face in the sea of all unknowns.

Then it was time for History of Modern Italy and more fun facts…

And then I went home, ate left over Risotto, talked with the roommates and then we all went to an Irish pub near the school for a night of pub trivia, which we did okay at, coming in fourth. Then it was time for bed at midnight to get up the next morning for Siena. 

Knowledge, knowledge, everywhere

Firenze is FULL of history, stories, legends, myths, culture, music, ideas...a long list of information and knowledge, so much so that you get lost in the sea of information. Yet some things really stick with you, for me it is the surprising pieces of knowledge, or the facts that are being told to me a second or third time, a refresher.

Yesterday we had a local Police officer talk to us about being safe in Florence, he was funny, smart and really nice to talk to such a group. His facts made sense on refusing to be a victim by making smart decisions when travelling. I appreciated his candor, and his joke that "The number one Italian sport is...SEX". Which isn't really a joke, but I found it amusing. Sometimes stereotypes are actually true, and exist for a very good reason, and in this case it is "hey ladies don't get too wrapped up in the romance and lose your head". Maybe I can see this as more amusing since I am taken, while others I know are YEARNING for an Italian romance. How can you blame them? Three years ago I wanted a European romance too...turned out poorly in the end, but I remember that feeling, that emotion, that longing to be adored and gushed over by a foreigner. If I were single who is to say I wouldn't be looking again? Regardless, I think it is important to remember how to be safe, and it's important to have fun, but don't be stupid.

Today I had proper classes, that even though I was still feeling rundown from being sick I actually really enjoyed, and got very "awake" while attending. I started the day with my Italian Fashion Industry course at 12:30 with this lovely woman originally from the south of Italy. She has studied in New York and Florence, was very welcoming and sweet and I really enjoyed her mini-lecture and walk through Florence to show us designer shops and displays and give us a beginning look at what would be covered in the course. Of course this is the day my shoes decided to give me a blister so I spent the next two hours after class on my butt drinking coffee and eating gelato instead of my photography I originally planned on.

Regardless five came around soon enough and it was time for my next class, History of Modern Italy. Yesterday at the orientation I knew immediately I would like the professor that was teaching this course, and in fact in class he was even better than I imagined. Though we are studying WWII on for the most part, we also have to know what the hell Italy was BEFORE WWII. Today we spent the class learning a brief overview of Italy, which proved to be a really great way to brush up on my Medieval History knowledge of the region. Then we finished at the renaissance, and just what that meant for the world. Which are a few things I never realized. The renaissance meant that NUDE painting/sculpture art was okay again, and that meant the the human form could be embraced and loved. Which meant that played in with humanism and the individual that was influenced by the rediscovery of Plato...which leads to a bunch of other rabbit trails.

Florentine-Literary Genius-Dante

However, in all of this wonderful and enthralling lecture I learned that ITALIAN the language was originally the FLORENTINE dialect, and that DANTE when writing La Divine Comedie used the dialect for the first time in writing. Everything had been written in Latin until then, and him using the people's language was a huge step. Not only that but he used his regional dialect, with some words and variations from around Italia, but ultimately he penned the first version of what would become the ITALIAN language of the entire country. Dante also referenced the idea of "Italia" or unified country like in the days of Rome, an idea not really explored before. Anyway, I sound like a really big nerd and really nutty about weird things...but hey that's what you get with us history majors.

Anyway, going to bed dreaming of the geniuses of old...

CIAO!

Sick Traveller

The sick gods thought it would be fun to really mess with me in my first few days of being in my host country for my study abroad experience. They thought they would give me as bad of a cold as I had in February with coughing, sneezing, lungs so heavy I can't breathe with a sinus headache to boot, sick. I have found some fizzy tablets that kill the headache, but for lungs it is cough syrup, which I really don't want to be wasting my money on and I already ran out yesterday morning. Of course the coughing doesn't get really bad until I am trying to lay down to sleep.

But beyond being sick I am still out doing things. Yesterday was a proper orientation with my school where I got my schedule, my museum card, and some information on other school-related opportunities.

For instance, I am going to be writing for the school blog, 250 words a segment talking about my experience, once or twice a week...hey I think I can handle that.

Also, I am looking into doing independent study in photography instead of one of my classes,  but there is the whole glitch that even though I am self-taught as a photographer it doesn't really transfer into the academic world. So I may be bust in that. Regardless it was worth asking about.

Today I have classes from 12:30-2:30 a break until 5 where I think I might go see something and have a small lunch, then I go back from 5-7. Which I think I will follow with some sunset photography...if I can keep my coughing, hacking, weezing under control.

Tomorrow night I have classes, but I am also really looking forward to some fun activities after. Such as maybe going to a FREE art history lecture, and a pub quiz at a local Irish pub (run by a Glaswegian) that Richard likes a lot. They have strongbow, which isn't my favorite cider, but it is better than nothing.

Well time for breakfast and life...figure out what I am taking for lunch today and all that.

Love,
Rebecca

P.S. I promise to have better adventures once I kick this blasted cold.

Firenze, the first 48 hours

I have a cold, nasty in my throat and head, I hurt all over.

However, that is not stopping me from being present from my first few days in Florence, Italy.

or Firenze, as the Italians call it.

I arrived on Saturday afternoon...had dinner...

Sunday I took my own little walk through the neighborhood, which is around Santa Maria Novella, a truly beautiful church built around the same time as the Duomo.

I was after a grocery store and some breakfast, I could not find one. I finally found the tourist information center and they pointed me in the rough direction. It took me a while but I found it.

I bought too much stuff, but I got it all back to the apartment, had some cereal and all in time to meet our program coordinator for the walking tour of the city.

Of course it was beautiful, amazing, awe inspiring

and overwhelming.

Cupid, street performer by the Uffizi

Started at Santa Maria Novella, walked to the Duomo, walked to the school, walked to more courtyards and streets and churches, saw the replica david, walked to the river, walked across the river on the Ponte Vecchio. Saw more things, had water. Walked back home to rest a few hours.

Then at 7:30 we got the bus experience of Firenze, which was hot, sweaty and so not worth it. Walking is way better, and almost takes as long.

Then we had the great experience of a full Italian dinner. Three courses and absolutely delicious and it was all in an "off the beaten path" neighborhood where Richard is well known and adored. Dinner went from 8:30 to almost 11 which is very Italian. The first course was risotto for me, second an onion omelette and my side was french fries. Three courses...I made it through the risotto and omelette and could not eat another bite. Okay I had a few french fries to try it.

Then we walked my roommates to an Irish pub, and Richard walked me home. I wanted to join Helen and Charlotte, but I just felt so sick. I got home, showered, and crawled into bed after calling Ryan to hear his voice and tell him that I loved him.

June 3, Monday

Up at 9:30, late for me, I made some toast in the oven and then ran to the farmacia for cold remedies. Which have been keeping me on my feet today.

I then met Richard, Helen and Charlotte to go deal with paperwork on living here, and all that. We're apparently getting a tax code and such that will help if we want to come back and work.

Then we went to the school to find out what time to come back tomorrow for orientation, got a schedule and learned I'll be getting a student card that gets me into a ton of free things, and means I can skip the lines! SCORE, that means I'll pocket a lot of money and can say afford to eat some more gelato...or have more caffe...as if I need it.

I also met another student-teacher from Indiana at the school, a photographer doing his BFA on walled cities, as a photographer. Cool guy, and we talked equipment and cities in the United Kingdom and Ireland.

Also, I'll be going to Siena on Friday for free, with my school!

and then ROME for the weekend.


Then I had lunch of a salad with olives, tuna and capers. Our waiter really took to me for some reason, rubbing my shoulders and then asking me when I would be coming back. He was from South America and really sweet. Sometimes I can't tell if I am being flirted with or someone is just being friendly. Regardless I am enjoying meeting the locals, and "making friends".

Yesterday, our neighbor just gave us a bunch of bananas for free, and told us to come to him for fruit. Sweet, sweet older gentleman, I hope to find his stall at the produce market in the next few days. Or knock on his door, since he just lives across the alley from us.

Or this morning at the farmacia, the pharmacist was asking me if I was Irish, and was surprised I was from Colorado, something about my English being good? He was also very sweet.

I am having a little difficulty getting used to people kissing you on the cheek as a hello or goodbye...I don't mind it, I just forget to kiss back.

After lunch I left to find a gluten-free bakery outside of the town center. Which I bought a croissant and some gluten-free gnocchi. Totally worth the trek since the croissant was wonderful and I am pleased that I will have gnocchi for dinner tonight.

Then as I was walking back to the town center I ran into another tourist, from Chicago a student named Matt who has been backpacking for a few weeks and will be doing two whole months in Europe. He told me about camping in the alps (illegal) but he did it anyway, and said it was a fantastic experience. He knows Colorado really well, and loves camping and hiking in the area, is hoping to climb some fourteeners when he gets back to the states. He had the "Colorado look" and mentioned he had wanted to go to Colorado State, but couldn't afford the out of state tuition. Lately I have been realizing I am actually pretty lucky about where I live. I get frustrated with things, but being away and the awe that people have about where I live, I need to appreciate what I have.

Travelling, as many of you know makes you really present, which makes you better understand yourself. Like being around Angie's children made me realize that I could see myself having kids one day, or hearing how much people love and want to be in Colorado makes me see that I am really lucky in what my life is. I forget these things, or didn't even know them about myself until the last two weeks. I imagine these "news flash" moments will keep coming.

After pointing Matt where to find the Duomo, I found a vendor selling patches for a coat I put patches on. I then decided I needed pasta sauce for dinner, which lead to me remembering to get salt and pepper, which I then noticed an American buying Gluten-Free bread so I told her about the bakery since she will be here for three weeks. Firenze I am realizing has really approachable people, or the atmosphere makes it so it feels right to talk with people. I'm not sure. But I love it.

Back home, up the buzillion stairs to my apartment (my ass will look awesome after this! You're welcome Ryan) I am now in my pajamas listening to the fruit vendor yell at someone on the phone. Which Italians do, yelling at one another on the phone is their thing and they don't really care who sees or knows it.

I promise to post more photos soon, and I KNOW I will have some amazing ones to try and sell. The art here is really inspiring for me too, I may have to buy a sketchbook and go at drawing some, I just feel like I want to have a wall to just doodle and paint on.

Ciao!

Romantic City Without the Romance

As you all know, or if you are just tuning in, I live with my boyfriend in Colorado and this trip has meant me leaving him in Colorado while I travel. He has been really great about it, with short phone calls every day and Skype when we can, I miss him like crazy, he misses me. Typical "I left my partner at home while I traveled" story.

So far, in England I would see couples and think "oh I miss Ryan".

But in Italy, a country known for romance, romantic people, language, food, music, cities...I'm a bit saddened by the fact my romance is 5,000 miles away...or at least the person. The person I want to have a date with at a quaint restaurante, or sip wine with in the Piazza, or put a lock on the Ponte Vecchio with our names written on it, like all the young kids do these days. Not to mention all the other places I haven't seen and all the experiences I haven't had that I would wish he was with me on.

Of course there is the joy of travelling alone, making new friends, seeing new places, learning personal strengths and weaknesses. Yet, when you have left your boyfriend, husband, fiance, or whatever it is you call your lover, it sucks a little not having them by your side as you learn and experience so many new things.

I'm not saying I don't love Florence, the people the art, the culture...I just wish my love was here too.

But in two months I will be home again, wishing I was here, so I am going to enjoy HERE now. Even if I am alone.

and dream of bringing Ryan here one day.

Making it to Italy

and I think I have a cold....

I thought it was allergies but I think I'm actually sick. Meh.

Oh well, I am in Italy and going to make the best of everything.

First off, I arrived about 2:30 yesterday where I went through border control with no problem, got my luggage and was met by the program director Richard who took me and my two roommates to our apartment via taxi. Giving us a sneak peak of the city.

We arrived at the apartment, and found we were up about 5 floors at the very top of the building which provides for great views and a noise barrier to the busy street below. It means I could also see the couple sunbathing across from us, the woman was topless. Welcome to Italy!

There are tiled floors on the main floor, a comfortable sized kitchen, living room, and upstairs loft where my roommates are sleeping and I happen to have my own room, which I didn't have to pay extra for.

It is simple but nice, and secure, double locks and all that. I also have my own bathroom, there is a washing machine tucked away upstairs and I have yet to figure out where to dry my clothes but I will try to be innovative.

We went to dinner last night at a restaurant just down the street when we failed to find the one suggested to us by Richard. I ordered a caffe, and when the waiter asked "espresso?"

"Oui" came pouring out of my mouth, instead of "Si", the waiter laughed as I smacked my head in embarrassment.

For my meal I had a seafood salad, with octopus, which I learned I do not like very much, too chewy. But I did love that the salad had a simple lemon for added flavor instead of being drenched in dressing.

Then it was back to the apartment, I needed rest and my roommates fell asleep without doing much either.

This morning I was up at 8:30 and took a walk in the search of a grocery store, I was starving but got sidetracked by pretty things. I finally asked at the Tourist Information Center where one would be, and she pointed me in a general direction which took another 15 minutes to find, but I did. I bought way too many groceries, pissing off the line behind me at the register, and the attendant, and my arms as I carried it all back home. But I needed toilet paper, dish soap, laundry detergent and actual food for the next few days. Eating out here is really expensive, and since I can't afford or justify €20 every meal, I'll be cooking in a lot.

Roommates left to get coffee and I am waiting 15 minutes to meet our program guide for a walking tour of the city and to check out our school where we will be taking classes. I am still unsure what I am taking. I know for sure I will be taking History of Modern Italy and then either The Italian Fashion Industry or Beginning Italian. I know whatever I am taking it will be a good learning experience.

As far as my feelings go about the people I am meeting, the locals are giving me a lot of "Stupid Americana" looks. Then there are others who are very kind and nice.   I need to get used to asking questions in Italian, but I keep forgetting I am in another country. Which is really dumb on my part, but maybe I just feel so comfortable here it doesn't feel like I am in another country.

I am getting used to all the scooters, they keep running well into the night. And then last night, Saturday night, was of course a big party and clubbing night so there was a lot noise. I am getting used to people crossing the street wherever they want which seems all around European. Which is something I did in Denver all the time, but since I am used to helping raise a 6 year old and always using the crosswalks I am now that much more cautious. I'm also afraid of getting arrested for jaywalking or something stupid like that. Which would mean like 10 other people in my vicinity would need to be arrested, so that just doesn't make much sense.

Goodbye England

Saturday June 1^st

Currently I am sitting in a Pret A Manger waiting to check my bag so I can fly to Florence at 11am and start my study abroad. I am also trying to recall everything from the last few days.

Tuesday evening was slow, we went to Tesco where I found a new bag, and Wednesday we took a little jaunt to Hitchin after taking Mae to “Puddle Ducks” her nursery school. Hitchin was fine even in a drizzle and chilly wind and we enjoyed walking the city center. I realized my view of the city had changed, and I remembered it in my head so differently than it actually was. I am now wondering what else I remember wrong, or different from reality.

Wednesday night we had Kristian’s parents and Great Auntie Kay over for dinner where around rounds of drinks and another fantastic dinner from Angie we swapped stories and what nicknames we loved and hated. I also learned a lot about Kristian’s family and where everyone came from, what they did and who they were in the scheme of things. Kay’s husband and Kristian’s grandfather had both been Prisoners of War in World War II. I love these family stories, passed on from one generation to the next telling the story of the people that were. They fill me with warmth and understanding of these people in a whole new light.

Thursday was a lazy day, I watched Mae when Angie took baby Bonnie in to meet her coworkers and then again when Angie took a nap. Raising two children under five is extremely hard work, I don’t know how she does it, but naps are a great way to stay sane.

Then Friday came and we decided to get up early, get everything together and take a drive to the seaside. We chose Holkham in Norfolk for our place to go. Of course, as British beaches go everything was misty and foggy and we couldn’t actually see the ocean from the beach but Mae, Kristian and I enjoyed putting our toes in some puddles and walking in the sand. The smell was not overpowering but fresh enough to enjoy a seaside experience. After an hour or so, we went to catch a small narrow gauge train which was impossible to find, but we did and half an hour later arrived in another little town. We were under the impression we had 15 minutes to walk to the farm shop about 100 yards away and make it back to get our car. So we went, Kristian grabbed a few beers, and we walked back to the train, arriving just after it had left. We came to the conclusion the elderly conductor forgot about us and left early assuming we were aboard. Stuck in a town we knew little to nothing about we asked the local pub where to catch a bus, which lead to us asking a local who had a bus schedule when the next one would be. While we waited we looked around the very old town of Walsingham with its mystical and holy wells that was once a medieval pilgrimage site, and today still brings in the religious. I bought some award winning jam, we caught the bus, and made it back to where we had left the car. About the same time as the train had. 

We piled into the car, stopped in Swaffham for fish and chips, gluten free again! YAY! Then made a rather quick drive back to Steeplemorden to get Baby Bonnie, drive back to Letchworth for me to shower, check my bank account (I finally got my school funds!), pack my bags and collapse into my futon bed on the floor.

Today I was up at 5am to call Ryan before leaving. He told me about his wacky day of getting lots of crap about the state of the store he manages from his boss. His boss then was leaving, parked next to our car and the lovely Fort Collins wind came off the mountain slamming her driver’s side car-door into the passenger’s side of our NEW Mazda 2. She says she will pay for it…I’m wondering why we bothered buying a nice new car when this in the 3^rd ding in six months. Oh well, Ryan hopes to find a garage and just get everything fixed. I’m just sad Kermit is getting so beat up.

On the bright side I will be in Florence VERY soon and I will try very hard to leave the drama back home. Leaving it, is the key I am on an amazing adventure!

Love,

Rebecca