Roma

I’m riding home on a TRENITALIA, my feet hurt, my mind is overwhelmed and I have a million new freckles that SPF 30 could not protect against. I’m somewhere on the outskirts of the eternal city thinking about everything that happened this weekend.

I am sitting next to an Italian man of about 40 and in front of a 20-something couple that can’t keep their hands off of one another. Helen, Charlotte, and Richard are scattered throughout the train, as most people, like us, are heading somewhere after a weekend away. Some for business, some for pleasure, maybe even some are headed for a week of work somewhere else in the country. We keep ending up in new seats as well, since we can’t seem to sort out where our seats are on the tickets, and some people are really worried about having THEIR assigned seat. I find it laughable, and as travelling goes, these little things are best dealt with when we can laugh.

I keep thinking how bad my feet hurt, and how annoying it is that not one of the three pairs of shoes I brought to Europe are keeping my feet from hurting, blistering and bleeding. Which has made long days on cobblestone a painful process. So, in Rome, I bought a pair of authentic leather boots, or “kicks” as some people call them. I figured if the lady working in the store, who is on her feet all day everyday was wearing them to work, then they may just be a nice and safe pair to wear while walking around for the rest of my trip. When I tried them on in the store my feet started feeling better instantly. So I trust it was a good purchase.

The last two days…

We got up at 5:30 in the morning on Saturday in order to make it to Rome at a reasonable time, to see as much of the city as possible in only two days. This put us in the city at 8:30 and at the hotel in only ten minutes via cab. There we were not allowed to go to our room and nap for a while, as we originally planned, but instead were left to get cleaned up in the bathroom and make the best of an early day.

We added a museum to our itinerary, seeing another part of one of the roman forums, and a modern photography exhibit. Our only schedule was to see the Vatican at 1:30, so we went to the Trevi fountain for photos, to throw the coin, and to see the city. Then we headed to the Vatican, I ate a bag of chips for lunch and everyone else had pizza. Then we waited and waited in line for the Vatican, even though we had reserved tickets, there was just so many people, also with reserved tickets. Then it was more waiting in line, standing among thousands of people, cameras, paintings, statues…we saw the Sistine Chapel. And due to pure exhaustion, too many people and too much heat that was it. I could not do any more. I tripped on some stairs, I wanted to cry, my feet hurt so bad. I honestly feel as if I got nothing from the chapel I had waited for so long to see. Not to mention we somehow missed the Last School of Venice due to poor line management and signs. I just didn’t even care at that point and there was no way in hell I wanted to go back through everything to see it.

So we left, didn’t even feel like seeing the Vatican cathedral, I just didn’t care, no one else really did either. Too many people, a line a mile long….it was too much. We planned to go back the next day, but I still didn’t care much. I will never visit the Vatican in the summer again, I realized that Italy, though warm and wonderful in the summer is overwhelmed with people. I think if I return it will be in the fall or winter, though chilly, I want a chance to see things without 7,000 people also breathing down my neck.

I think though, with some rest and time I will appreciate more of seeing what I did, I’m just now so very tired of crowds.

But, we found a respite last night. We went back to the hotel at 4:30, and even though there was some confusion on being able to find both room reservations we finally got into the room, and got to see the hotel’s interior which was absolutely stunning. Built in 1850 it used to be one of the most prestigious hotels for Rome’s wealthier travelers. It was known to hole politicians, aristocrats and other famous faces, and I can see why. It was gorgeous, marble floors, paintings, dressed up staff, crown molding. I loved it. The room was painted in a pale blue with wonderful 18^th century prints in simple frames adorning the walls. A large bathroom felt luxurious and even though I got the roll-away bed, it was lovely. I took a shower, got into some pajamas and went to bed for a couple of hours before dinner.

Richard called me at 7:20, and told me to meet him at 7:45 for dinner. Helen and Charlotte, exhausted, stayed in the hotel and rested, ordering room service for dinner.

Richard’s friend Tara met us for dinner, a very sweet graduate student from New York interning at one of the modern art museums. It was great to talk to her about museums, and studying, where she had been, what she loved. We all chatted about politics, and religion, and wacky things in our world. It was wonderful.

Oh and I haven’t even talked about the food yet.

We went to this place called Rinalde al Quirinale, which one on the Panrimo team had picked out for a dinner place, and thank the powers that be! This is the best meal I have ever eaten out, it is the place I will go next time I am in Rome, without question, and where before getting on a train I hoped to stop at and eat again as we walked by. Never have I felt so passionate about an eatery.

First things first, they greeted us so warmly when we walked up, letting us choose a seat wherever we wanted, we chose the terrace. Instantly we were brought menus, water, and server after server with friendly smiles and kind hearts. I asked about gluten free options and got the answer “anything you like, we’ll make” or something like that. There was NO question about making sure I had a good meal, and that I could eat whatever I wanted. NEVER have I had that. NEVER.

We ordered, no pressure placed on us to have more than one dish, we got an appetizer to start things. So simple. Caprese for the appetizer, so cheese and tomatoes, all were beautiful, fresh and so very tasty. Ricotta that melted, Mozzarella that made you smile.

                  

Then the food came, I got over my anti-fish and got a Risotto with itty bitty prawns. It was the best risotto I have had in Italy! Seriously. It had pumpkin and something else but god it was good. I almost wished I could have had three times the amount! But I was pretty full after the risotto. Another cool thing was what Richard and Tara ordered, they brought them separate cheeses for their meals just to make sure the flavor and taste was just right. WHO DOES THAT ANYMORE?

After finishing the main course they asked about desserts, we all went for it, and had some wonderful sweets. I got the in-house made Crème Brulee, which was just brilliant! They both got cakes, and said they were wonderful.

We finished with espressos, and I had my first shot of lemoncello. Oh ITALIA! I then crawled back to the hotel room, smiling at the amazing meal I had, and into bed dreaming sweetly of what a beautiful experience I had.

Sunday, we slept in some, I was up by 7, the other two slept until 8 or so. We all got dressed, enjoyed a large breakfast buffet, and then checked out and hit the road towards the coliseum. Which was my main reason for wanting to go to Rome, and it was worth it. We made sure to join a tour, which helped us skip the lines, but also gave us more of a story as to what we were actually looking at. Like the bottom part being where they caged animals, the wood platform was from 2000 and was meant to show where the real arena would be. Also, there was some marble seats still left for people to get an idea of what sitting at the coliseum would have been like.

It was really cool! I loved it, and made everyone spend about 4 hours dealing with the coliseum and the ancient city. But I felt it was very worth it. I loved the stories that I heard as we walked through the ancient city with our guide. I loved the view from the coliseum, I loved it all, and even though some of the death aspect was disturbing I found it all so fascinating. The ancient city brought so much to my attention, and made me really visualize the grandeur of where and how these people lived. It also made me cringe at the reality that so much was ripped apart. The Romans built things to last, they didn’t build them to fall apart and the reason they are all in such horrible shape is because of groups like the Christians recycling much of the marble and other features to build their churches in Rome. Meaning they would just take all the good bits and leave the crummy parts to rot, and eventually those all got covered with rubble and forgotten at different times. Until about 500 or 150 years ago when people started to try and preserve, find and love their ancient relics.

So my interest and question is what would all of this have looked like if people hadn’t gone about tearing everything down? They built things to last, I saw a pair of 1,800 year old doors today that the locks still work perfectly. What does that say?

On less serious notes, I had my picture taken with “Gladiators” really funny pictures, Richard got in some too. It was totally worth the 10. I will treasure these goofy photos for forever.

 

After the ancient city and coliseum we said goodbye and took a taxi to the Spanish steps, walked them, saw the cathedral. Walked down. Then we hit some stores and did some shopping. I upgraded to SPF 50, as per the comments and advice of the pharmacist, it was on sale for 50% off, so it was 13.50 instead of 26 or something. Helen bought a new outfit and then we found the shoe store. Helen and Charlotte both got gladiator sandals, and I myself bought my boots, since I have sandals that are kind or working here…kind of.

Then we walked to the hotel, picked up our luggage, walked to the train station, got a bite to eat at a cafeteria thing, and now we’re on the train. I saw Rome.

I think I am going to pass out in bed and mess with adult things in the morning, like dishes and laundry and showering.

CIAO!